Lǎo Rén Chá 老人茶
Gān Pào 乾泡 (Dry Brewing) Style
Drawing on the Cháozhōu 潮州 tea brewing tradition originated from the Guǎngdōng 廣東 province of China and intimately linked with dān cōng 单枞 oolongs and their birthplace (Phoenix Mountain / Fènghuáng shān 鳳凰山), Taiwanese tea practitioners developed their own flavor of gōng fu chá 工夫茶[1] through the active development of the tea arts movement (chá yì 茶艺) and specialized tea houses through the 70s and 80s. This period saw the introduction of several novelties aiming to create new ways of experiencing, enjoying, and ‘ritualizing’ tea, most being related to aesthetics (tea stage / chá xí 茶席[2] and floral arrangement / chā huā 茶花), social events (such as wú wǒ tea gatherings 無我茶會[3]), as well as utensils. Two new tools were indeed implemented, now commonly used among tea enthusiasts and groups: the chá hǎi 茶海[4] (typically known as gōng dào bēi 公道杯 in China and overseas Chinese communities), a pitcher (fairness cup) used to decant the tea equally into the cups and inspired by the yuzamashi 湯冷まし found in Japanese senchadō 煎茶道 tea ceremony (where it serves to cool down the water prior to its insertion inside the teapot); and the aroma / fragrance cup[5] (wén xiāng bēi 闻香杯), a distinctive tall and narrow cup used in conjunction with a regular tasting cup to – as the name suggests – appreciate the scent stemming from the tea. While Taiwanese lǎo rén chá 老人茶 originally placed a great emphasis on locally grown and produced oolongs, it is nowadays indiscriminately used with other types of tea such as pu’er.
- Ideal for: People new to tea or looking to further explore specific tea cultivars and regions.
- Teas shared: Organic or naturally grown Taiwanese teas, Chinese hēichá 黑茶 (will be tailored based on the event and availability)
- Number of guests: 1 – 5
- Duration: 1 hour to 1 hour and a half
- Event type: Public & private
Notes
[1] The art of brewing tea with skill. Informally known as lǎo rén chá 老人茶 (old man tea) in Taiwan.
[2] Your host’s chá xí principles strongly revolve around the use of utensils spontaneously found in or gifted by Nature, each conveying their own unique history and raw beauty through their color, texture, and shape. They give birth to an organic, intimate, and humble sharing that allows tea to freely express the universality of its languages.
[3] Wú wǒ 無我 gatherings (translated as “selfless”, based on the central Buddhist concept of anattā, with wú 無 expressing void/absolute emptiness and wǒ 無 referring to mine/self/being) are special social events where tea drinkers bring their own tea and set, and share tea in a circle. Each participant brews the tea leaves she/he has brought into several cups reflecting the number of individuals present. If four cups are used, three will be served to the three people sited on your left, with the last cup being kept for yourself. You will also be served an equal amount of cups from the people sited on your right. When the tea has been drunk, additional infusions can be performed as needed. Depending on the number of people, more circles can be formed. This type of tea sharing typically follow a set of specific principles and rules, which are detailed through this article.
[4] Fair cups are commonly made of glass, which allows to observe the color of the tea liquor. Two main decanting techniques are used (each influencing the characteristics of the brew that is served), with the first one being the most popular: decanting and serving individually each infusion, or decanting two or three infusions into the pitcher then serve. The chá hǎi is a utensil Raphaël is particularly fond of, as it slows down and make one’s practice more mindful.
[5] Aroma cups are used as follows. The tea is first poured into the aroma cup and covered with the tasting cup (put upside down). Both cups are then held with the hands and quickly flipped over. The aroma cup (now on top) is lifted to release the tea liquor into the tasting cup. The gentle fragrance of the tea, clinging to the surface of the now empty aroma cup, can now be enjoyed. Note that when such cups are used, the tea is therefore never drunk from them directly. Additionally, they are always made of porcelain, which better highlights the fragrant notes of the tea. Your host only use them on rare occasions, when tasting a brand-new tea or conducting side-by-side comparisons.